Sarah Lévy – The sociologist of add-ons
TLmag: You came to accessories quite past due. Tell us about your adventure?
Sarah Levy: I turned into firstly an architect. It changed into a comfy preference, but even lower back then, it didn’t certainly resonate with me. The fashion schools, especially La Cambre, made an impact on me. I didn’t sense at domestic. At the end of my research, I worked for a decade as an architect. I additionally started a thesis on city planning. As a part of this, I became invited to take a look at the Parsons School of Design in New York. There, in which I was in touch with two jewelers, I found accessories, in addition to working with craftsmen. Back in Belgium, I enrolled at Arts et Métiers. I studied there for two years at the same time as
completing my thesis. But after a year as a city planner, I felt stuck with the institutional aspect of the task. The add-ons section of La Cambre had simply opened. For me, it was a manner to start a change without transitioning from one task to any other. I jumped in.
TLmag: And this time, you belonged …
S.L.: We had been only 4 students, inclusive of a photographer and a clothier, overseen by means of outstanding professors. That’s wherein I discovered the universe of leatherwork. The first year, I gave myself overall freedom. At La Cambre, I become driven to move past my barriers, to comply with my intuition. The 2d 12 months, once I
become running on my graduation collection, I started a real mirrored image on the human frame. My idea was to translate, through accessories, our current habits. I reflected on the ones ordinary objects which have to grow to be our new fetishes: the telephone, the digital cigarette…Objects that have created new gestures. My aim is not to criticize these manias, but instead to imagine the add-ons in song with our existence ‘rituals’.
TLmag: The series is even called Creatures of Habits…
S.L.: These add-ons have modified our posture and our morphology. So I created prostheses that,
on the one hand, ease our day by day gestures and, on the other hand, highlight the obsessive aspect of those addictions. I labored with a prosthetist and orthopaedist. In precise, my studies led me to transpose the prosthetics strategies into the area of leatherwork: greater particularly, glove making. For instance, I imagined a long leather-based glove stitched to a cell cellphone case. My whole series performs on this ambiguity among self-belief and constraints. I had the possibility to collaborate with French glovemakers Lavabre Cadet, who helped me to create a number of the seven portions inside the collection. Working on gloves, an item regularly is taken into consideration to be out of date, however which calls for
actual expertise, also involved me plenty.
TLmag: This collection inspired the jury on the Hyères pageant, which, as we recognize, is the first-rate springboard for designers. Was it this that made you need to use?
S.L.: Hyères is an outstanding area of expression for any young clothier. The humans I met for the duration of the pageant think about style in a sensible manner. When you are taking a method that isn’t always at all business-oriented, being a finalist inside the opposition represents an enormous possibility.
TLmag: You are based in Brussels. Do you declare
S.L.: Even again when I became reading structure, I felt very rooted in this us of a. I very plenty revel in being part of this Belgian dynamic and being able to paintings in Brussels. I am no longer claiming that I belong right here, however, I hope in order to construct an undertaking right here without always having to move to Paris.
TLmag: Do you feel close to any Belgian clothier particularly?
S.L.: I work with Ester Manas, who became additionally a finalist at Hyères in the fashion phase, final yr, and for whom I layout add-ons. Having grown collectively and worked
on a shared task may be very pleasing. For my next phase, I’m not final any doors. I would love to find out how a big style residence operates. And additionally to collaborate with different creators whose imaginative and prescient I share. In any case, developing my logo isn’t a lead to itself.