Sarah Lévy – The sociologist of add-ons
TLmag: You came to accessories pretty past due. Tell us approximately your adventure?
Sarah Levy: I became, in the beginnin ofg, an architect. It turned into a comfy desire, however, even back then, it didn’t virtually resonate with me. The style schools, specifically La Cambre, made an influence on me. I didn’t experience at home. At the quit of my studies, I worked for a decade as an architect. I additionally started out a thesis on city planning. As part of this, I changed into invited to look at the Parsons School of Design in New York. There, where I turned into in touch with two jewelers, I discovered accessories, as well as operating with craftsmen. Back in Belgium, I enrolled at Arts et Métiers. I studied there for two years at the same time as
completing my thesis. But after a yr as a city planner, I felt stuck with the institutional aspect of the task. The add-ons section of La Cambre had just opened. For me, it was a manner to begin an alternate without transitioning from one job to every other. I jumped in.
TLmag: And this time, you belonged …
S.L.: We were most effective four college students, including a photographer and a dressmaker, overseen with the aid of high-quality professors. That’s in which I located the universe of leatherwork. The first yr, I gave myself overall freedom. At La Cambre, I became pushed to go beyond my boundaries, to follow my instinct. The 2d 12 months, when I
changed into working on my graduation collection, I commenced a real mirrored image on the human body. My concept was to translate, through accessories, our modern behavior. I pondered on the ones normal objects which have become our new fetishes: the phone, the digital cigarette…Objects that have created new gestures. My purpose isn’t always to criticize those manias, however as an alternative to imagining the accessories in music with our life ‘rituals’.
S.L.: These add-ons have changed our posture and our morphology. So I created prostheses that,
on the one hand, ease our daily gestures and, then again, highlight the obsessive side of these addictions. I labored with a prosthetist and orthopaedist. In precise, my studies led me to transpose the prosthetics techniques into the area of leatherwork: extra especially, glove making. For example, I imagined a long leather glove stitched to a mobile phone case. My complete series performs on this ambiguity among confidence and constraints. I had the possibility to collaborate with French glovemakers Lavabre Cadet, who helped me to create some of the seven pieces inside the series. Working on gloves, an object frequently considered to be obsolete, but which requires
real expertise, additionally interested me a lot.
TLmag: This collection inspired the jury on the Hyères pageant, which, as we realize, is a first-rate springboard for designers. Was it this that made you need to use?
S.L.: Hyères is a splendid vicinity of expression for any young dressmaker. The people I met throughout the festival consider style in a sensible way. When you take a technique that is not in any respect enterprise-orientated, being a finalist within the opposition represents an enormous possibility.
TLmag: You are primarily based in Brussels. Do you declare
S.L.: Even returned after I became studying architecture, I felt very rooted in this u. S .. I very lots revel in being a part of this Belgian dynamic and being able to work in Brussels. I am not claiming that I belong right here, however, I wish which will build a mission here without always having to transport to Paris.
TLmag: Do you feel near any Belgian fashion designer in particular?
S.L.: I work with Ester Manas, who was additionally a finalist at Hyères in the fashion phase, ultimate year, and for whom I design accessories. Having grown collectively and run
on a shared challenge may be very pleasurable. For my next phase, I’m no longer remaining any doorways. I would love to discover how a large style residence operates. And additionally to collaborate with different creators whose imaginative and prescient I percentage. In any case, growing my brand is not a result in itself.
Thirty-fourth Hyères Festival for Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories, Villa Noailles, Hyères, France, from 25 to 29 April.